Safari #59B: A Bostonian in Amsterdam

I've been fortunate to travel to many places, and I've never visited a place quite like Amsterdam - and for bike riding, long walk taking, water loving Bostonians, Amsterdam is perfect offering you whatever adventure you may be seeking.

Getting Around

Public transportation is excellent in Amsterdam, but as we Bostonian's know, walking can be so much more fun.  I couldn't enjoy the strolling more - heading out of my centrally located hotel (Hotel Amsterdam) and walking my feet off every day.  If you don't want to stroll, rent a bike.  Keep in mind that there are bike lanes on nearly every street (don't walk in them!) with their own set of traffic lights.  So long as you follow the rules and pay attention, riding a bike is a safe and effective way to get around.

Art
A trip to any European city really isn't a trip if you don't visit a local museum.  The national gallery is the Rijksmuseum, which at the time of my visit, was under renovation.  It houses all of Holland's best known artists including Rembrandt.  While a limited portion of the collection was available for viewing, it was still thrilling to see the work in person.  My favorites were Rembrandt's Self Portrait at an Early Age and Johannes Vermeer's The Kitchen Maid.  Unfortunately, the Stidelijk Museum of Contemporary Art was closed for renovations at the time of my visit.

Amsterdam's Open Markets
If you really want to stroll, you have to visit at least one (if not all) of the following open markets.  Of course, this is still a short list as there are many others to check out as well. If you enjoy vintage shopping (clothes, accessories, and housewares) and fresh produce (don't miss the freshly squeezed orange juice), this list is a good start.

• Waterloopein - this market specializes in touristy items (mostly new) and very specific vintage items such as military gear (boots, jackets, pants, etc.).  There are also a large number of leather goods.
• Albert Cuypmarkt - Did you lose your luggage?  If so, head here to find all forms of cheap under clothes and toiletries in addition to fresh snacks and produce. 
• Noordermarkt - This large market offers an unbelieveable amount of vintage clothing, housewares, and art.  If you are looking for a unique piece to take home, spend most of your time looking here.  Fresh produce is also available.
• Bloemenmarkt  - some might argue that locals do not shop here, however, flowers are flowers folks, and if you saw the selection of fresh flowers and bulbs, you would want to shop here too.  If you're hoping to take bulbs home with you, don't miss my tips.
• Nieuwmarkt - If you're staying in Dam Square, this market is a short walk down Damstraat. I was glad to walk to this market and purchase fresh fruit for the refrigerator in my hotel room. To get there from Damstraat, turn left onto Klonveniersburgwal and keep walking.  The market will be on your right. 

Curious to know which market was my favorite? Hands down, Noordermarkt. Seriously.  I wish I brought an empty suitcase with me for all of the housewares and old prints I wanted to bring back.  Sigh.

Eating Like the Dutch
Yes, it's true that the Amsterdammers enjoy their Indonesian food - and if you feel compelled to enjoy the popular rijsttafel (ricetable), please do so.  However, there is absolutely nothing more authentic than eating raw herring.  That's right, lightly brined and served whole or sliced, you can enjoy this summer treat via kiosks located around town.  I decided to try it on a bun with onions and pickles.  It was awesome, and I ate one every single day.  If you enjoy fresh fish, don't pass this up.

Drinking Like the Dutch
You already know that this traveler appreciates craft beer, which means I had to find the best I could while in Amsterdam.  I certainly did.  Don't miss the chance to grab a seat at t'Arendsnest to try the best in Dutch craft beer.  Every beer I had was better than the last.  It was truly an experience, and I could not recommend a better place.


Picnicking at Vondelpark
We Bostonians love our parks, so it's impossible not to visit Amsterdam's Vondelpark.  With green, open spaces and a series of connected ponds, this peaceful park is the best place to rest your weary feet and enjoy a picnic.

As I mentioned in my previous post, enjoying a sit down dinner in Amsterdam most times requires a reservation.  If you're hoping to try Indonesian food and you don't make a reservation, you may not get the chance.   In addition, if you're looking to try Indonesian and not spend $40 euros on your meal, try take out.  There is a delicious a take-out restaurant near the park where you can choose small, medium, and large portions of dishes perfect for sharing.  I stumbled upon Ed's Indonesian Deli one evening and picked up a number of small samples perfect for enjoying in the park.  If you ask, they will heat all of the items for you.  Ed's in generally known only to local's, so consider this one of the best tips I can give you.  Ed's is located at 31 Alexsander Boersstraat, which runs along the southern side of Vondelpark.

Canal Tours

You simply cannot visit Amsterdam without taking a canal tour.  I read about canal tours from Boom Chicago, which in truth are not really tours, but more a local's insight into canal system's most enjoyable sights.  In addition, unlike other tour company's, Boom's boat is small allowing you to gain entry into smaller canals and neighborhoods.  More than anything, if you take a canal tour, do like the Amsterdammer's do and bring food, drinks, and a party attitude.  Most of all, enjoy the views and smile at passersby.

"Other" Things to Do
I'm sure that many of you are wondering about "other" things to do in Amsterdam.  I will share this - the Dutch believe strongly in the idea of personal responsibility.  If you're going to do anything, do it responsibly so as not to place either yourself or other's in harms way (and if you place yourself in harm's way, it's your fault).  Whatever else you choose to do while you are in town, do it respectfully and take notice that the Amsterdammer's (no matter what state they may be in) always have their act together.

Happy travels.

Safari #59A: Planning a Trip to Amsterdam

Greetings safari travelers!  I've been away these past few weeks enjoying a trip to northern Europe.  Now that I'm back, I'd like to share my travels and perhaps inspire you to head north yourself.

Up first, lessons learned from my trip to Amsterdam.  If you're planning at trip soon or if you've already been, please share your tips or ask questions in the comments.

Schipol Airport and the Train to Amsterdam's Centraal Station
Netherlands Railways (Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS)) and Fyra (high-speed train) provide rail service from Schipol to Amsterdam Centraal Station.  Access to the train system is through the arrivals hall.  Signs will clearly mark your way to the hall after you leave baggage claim.

An important point for American travelers - the kiosks that sell train tickets only accept credit and debit cards that use the 'chip and pin' system or euro coins.  The majority of American debit and credit cards do not use the chip and pin system**.  Be sure to have euros on hand, and even better, euro coins.  The train ticket will cost you anywhere from $3.80 to $4.80, depending on whether you choose the standard or high speed train.

• If you have euro coins - head to a kiosk that accepts coins (not all of them do).  Look carefully for the coin slot located above the touch screen.  
• If you do not have coins - head to the one of the NS service desks to speak to a service agent.  You can use euros to purchase your train ticket, and if you choose, you can also purchase your return ticket as well.

Note: As of July 2012, the cost for a 2nd class ticket on a standard train was $3.80 euro.  The cost for a high-speed, 2nd class ticket was $4.80 euro.

Meals
Fast food can easily be found everywhere in Amsterdam.  However, if you're hoping to enjoy a nice, sit down dinner, reservations are strongly suggested and at most times required.  More casual dinner options are available as well that do not require reservations.  Most bars and cafes will offer simple menus that include sandwiches and appetizers.

WiFi
Not that I'm encouraging you to eat fast food, but free WiFi is available in most chain fast food establishments, and many are represented in Amsterdam.  Buy yourself something to drink and take advantage of the free connectivity - especially if you don't have WiFi in your hotel or an international data plan on your smart phone.

Purchasing Flowers from the Bloemmarkt
It's hard to resist purchasing blubs at the Bloemmarkt or flower market.  With all of the varieties and low prices, you could easily plan your urban garden for a full season.  However, not all flowers are authorized for entry into the United States - a fact that some sellers will not mention unless you ask.

Be sure to locate the Certificate of Inspection located on the back of the bulb pacakge.  Pay close attention to the date of issue as it expires after six weeks.  While going through customs, the customs agent told me that tourists unsuspectingly purchase expired bulbs that only have to be thrown away when they arrive back in the U.S.

**According to PC Magazine, chip and pin cards will be available in the U.S. as of spring 2013.

Safari #58: Wine Bingo

Bingo is now more than random numbers on ping pong balls.  Rather than just using your ears, you can now use sight, smell, and taste to determine whether your wine is up.

That's right folks, it's called Wine Bingo, and I had the pleasure to try it - along with at least 20 different wines - a few weeks ago with 90+ Cellars, a Brookline based wine reseller.

Held at the Boston Wine School on Commonwealth Avenue in Allston, the event was well organized and fueled with plenty to eat and drink.  After a short tasting lesson from 90+ Cellars co-founder Brett Vankoski, our game began.  Samples of wine were poured for tasting and analysis.  Using your knowledge and senses to determine the type of wine, you could then place a marker on your card.  The process was fun, educational, and challenging.

This lucky player (every so graciously) won her own bottle.

Interested in attending?  Be sure to watch the 90+ Cellars website or follow them on Twitter.

**Special thanks to Jen for making the suggestion and inviting me!

Safari #57: A Bostonian in Montreal

Long weekends and road trips are great, especially when they take you over the border for an international adventure.

Less than a 5 hour drive from Boston, Montreal is perfect for a weekend getaway.  It's a modern city full of old world charm offering enough culture, arts, cuisine, and nightlife to keep you coming back.  The joie de vivre you will find here will be all your very own.



General Information
Montreal is the capital city in the French-speaking province of Quebec.  The majority of tourists spend their time in the borough (arrondissement) of Ville Marie, which contains a number of popular neighborhoods including Old Montreal.  Each neighborhood has it's own pedestrian zone, which are great spots to grab a cool drink, rest your feet, and rub elbows with locals.  Public transport is efficient and reliable, however, some would argue that you're better off on foot.  I suggest a blend of both options just to get a feel for city living.  If you're so inclined, you can also rent a bike.  Montreal is a great place for runners with plenty of paths across the city and near the water.

My Spots
Old Montreal (Vieux Montreal; map)
Upon recommendation from a friend, we visited the Notre Dame Basillica and headed towards Places Jacques Cartier for a cool drink and people watching.  We also saved one evening for a special meal at L'Auberge Saint- Gabriel, an inn well-known for its wonderful cuisine.  The service was excellent, and all of the additional touches from the attentive staff were greatly appreciated.  Even though we had no room for dessert, our waitress indulged our sweet tooths with brownies wrapped to go.

View from Mount Royal

Gay Village
A long walk down St. Catherine Street (Rue de Saint Catherine) led us directly into the Gay Village.  A pedestrian zone during the summer, this street is full of shops, cafes, bars, and nightclubs.  We enjoyed a relaxing lunch and cocktails while enjoying all of the street traffic.  

Mount Royal (Mont Royal; map)
The best view of the city can be seen from the top of Mount Royal.  A simple climb (about 20 to 30 minutes depending on your physical ability), will take you to the top where a panoramic view of the city can be found.  It's a great spot to bring your own lunch and take a break.

Chinese Quarter Paifang

Chinese Quarter (Quartier Chinois)
Every major city has a Chinatown, and Montreal's offers access to pan-Asian cuisine including Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese.  Paifang's mark two major entrances on Rue St. Laurent.  A newer and smaller Chinatown is also located new Concordia Univeristy. 

Plateau (Le Plateau-Mont-Royal; map)
As authentic as you can get, the Plateau is a neighborhood that many Montreal residents call home.  Practice your French and stroll like no one is watching.  We used the opportunity to visit a boulangerie to purchase bread, wine, cheese, and charcuterie. 

Picnik Electronik

Live Music
Montreal is well-known for its many music festivals throughout the year.  Our trip allowed us to partake in the Picnik Electronik - a day long electronic music festival held every Sunday May through September.  We took the Metro from the Plateau to the Island of Notre Dame (Ile Notre Dame) and headed to the festival.  Held directly underneath an Alexander Calder sculpture, festival goers danced to the DJ's never-ending stream of music.  Feel free to bring a bottle of wine (one per person) along with food.  This event was the highlight.


Future Trips
As my first and only time in Montreal, I can say with certainty that I will return again soon to explore more neighborhoods, shop, dance my butt off, and revive my French.

**Thanks to Lisa, Toni-Ann, and Eric for a great trip!  Special thanks to Carolyn for making the recommendation for Places Jacques Cartier and L'Auberge!

Safari #56: Porch Fest in Somerville

Is there anything better than a sunny day, good company, and amazing, live music? Nope.

I visited Porch Fest in Somerville for the first time this past weekend and left full of awe and excitement. 

Dotted throughout Somerville, 100+ bands played all afternoon to passersby. 

My friends and I chose a general route through town in the hopes of stumbling upon some great music. And we surely did. Here's what we found:

• Second Line Social Aid and Pleasure Society Brass Band - offering new orleans style jazz with lots of improvisation from outstanding horn players. Been to Honk Fest? If so, you've seen some of these folks before.
• Sam Spencer -  Sam quietly played his bass and gently touched us with his sound as we passed by.
• Nemes - four guys sitting in a small driveway drew us in with the sound acoustic rock and the sound of plucked violin strings. Their lyrics had me in tears.

If you've been thinking about visiting Porch Fest, you should definitely make a trip next year.  The website offers a full map and band listing making it easy for you to find your way to good music.  

Did you go to Porch Fest? Which bands did you enjoy most?

**Special thanks to Jen, Jeff, and Aaron for a wonderful afternoon! I was so glad to spend it with you!

Safari #55: Waltham Steampunk Festival

Very few of us remember what it's like to live in our imaginations.  Even fewer are willing to live those dreams out loud. 

For steampunks, those who embrace the Victorian era (fashion, science, exploration, literature) and a blend of 19th century and modern technology, this dream was brought to life in Waltham over Mother's Day weekend at the third annual Watch City Festival.

With vendor shops dotted along Moody Street and all the way to the Common, the world became a different place - with steam driven menageries, iron workers, jewelers, steampunk fashion designers, and every costumed individual in between.

The crowd was impeccably dressed in their finest steampunk-inspired garb - corsets, feathers, fascinators, aviator jackets, stirrups, gas masks, and goggles.

Everyone was different, and it was fantastic to witness.


My Tips:

• Purchase a Festival Pass.  Many of the vendors and outdoor exhibits are free, but there are additional festivities only open to those wearing a pass.  All purchases help support the Charles River Museum of Industry and Innovation.
  
• Dress up? Well, why not? There's no better way to participate than to dress up yourself.  Even the smallest accessory (like a top hat) is enough.  And if you think you're too old to participate, guess again.  This festival is for anyone with an imagination.
  
• Vendors - if this is your first time hearing about or seeing anything related to steampunk, don't miss the vendor exhibits to learn more about it. 

**Special thanks to Jen, Lisa, and Cristina for being my partners in crime.  It was a wonderful day!

Safari #54: Somerville Open Studios

Neon arrows gingerly direct. Telephone poles and stoops tether orange balloons. A stake in the ground opens a door.

I walked through many open doors this past weekend at the Somerville Open Studios. If you're not too familiar with Somerville, the open studios are like a welcome mat - both to the city (still a fairly new safari spot for this traveler) and to the many artists who live and work within its boundaries. There is no better introduction to Somerville than to plan a trip to the studios.

To some, studio events imply making a purchase. While it's true that many artists are hoping to sell their work, the open studios are an opportunity - both for you and the artist.

The feelings and conversations that art can evoke are priceless.

If you decide to attend the Open Studios next year, here are some tips to help plan your day:

• Visit the Website. The site is more than just a little comprehensive - it has everything you will need for your visit. Even though the event has passed, you can still get information about the artists.
• Start on one End and Finish on the Other. We started our art crawl in Union Square and headed towards Davis Square over the course of the day. It was the perfect way to stop into individual homes and collectives. Pick spots for beverages and food along the way, and you've got a whole day planned.
• Don't Feel Like Walking? Take the Trolley. That's right folks - those of you who are less inclined to walk can always use the free trolley service. If you're more like me, you'll definitely enjoy walking around the neighborhoods. As a matter of fact, I stumbled onto Prospect Hill Park for the first time, and I loved it! Check out the fort and the view of Boston from the top.